A Trip To The Country
Maureen's birthday seemed the perfect excuse for a little sojourn - a wee trip. Wish we could've returned to the rolling hills of Ireland, but a trip to the country would have to do. A trip to Cafe at Country to be exact.
I'd heard nothing but raves about this new companion cafe to Chef Geoffrey Zakarian's Town. Hype can be a dangerous thing. Expectations ran high - and the dining room (pictured above), although lovely, was more than a bit overcrowded on Saturday night.
Thankfully, even if the meal was a bust, I'd gotten Mo a bang-up, never-fail gift: Patron Reposado Tequila.
She admired the bottle as we sipped mighty fine cocktails at the restaurant's bar, waiting for our table. Mine, a bracing, orange sunset-hued Gin Lane. Mo's, a crisp, sweet apple apertif concoction.
If the cocktails where any indication, the restaurant was going to live up to the hype.
Once seated and with the arrival of Warm Gruyere Cheese Puffs topped with fleur de sel, I was convinced of it. Little pillows from heaven, they were fluffy-light, bite-sized, and oozing warm, creamy cheese with every bite. And, as if this plateful of little marvels wasn't enough to persuade me that I was in place of culinary reckoning, there was our other appetizer - Tartare of Beef. Packed into an inviting glass jar, roughly chopped ruby red steak was spiked with pickled chanterelles, capers, grainy mustard and onion - luscious when slathered on herb-toasted baguette slices.
The concept of entrees felt like overkill. But, heck they had already been ordered along with the appetizers.
The suffering would continue.
Mo endured perfectly seared scallops. I tolerated a brilliantly braised lamb shank bathed in North African spices, served alongside hummus and a yogurt-cucumber salad.
Life is tough in the Country.
We couldn't even contemplate dessert. Tea would have to do. Mo went for the Mint - I decided to try something more exotic and allowed the waiter to choose my brew.
This was the one and only misstep all evening. The Lapsong Souchoung tasted more like Liquid Smoke than a well-balanced cuppa. A switch to Breakfast blend was quickly made. The evening's theme of perfection was restored.
And, that's the word for Cafe at Country: restorative.